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Broken Twill Fabric

Twill is a type of textile weave with a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs (in contrast with a satin and plain weave). This is done by passing the weft thread over one or more warp threads then under two or more warp threads and so on, with a “step,” or offset, between rows to create the characteristic diagonal pattern. Because of this structure, twill generally drapes well.

These twills are constructed by breaking the continuity of any continuous twill weave. The continuity can be broken in either a regular or an irregular order. Broken twills generally give a stripe like effect. The direction of the stripes can tend to be in either the direction of warp or weft accordingly as the continuity is broken warp or weft way.

A large variety of attractive effects, generally somewhat similar in appearance to herring bone twills, can be produced by breaking a regular twill. One of the simplest methods of constructing a broken twill is shown in figure. The method involves skipping a suitable warp thread in a repeat of the twill.